Yes despite taking all the precautions recommended by doctors, travel guide books, natural remedy information etc, I succumbed to The Bangalore Belly Bug (thankfully on the final three days of the month-long visit to India). It serves me right too. People had warned me that few escape this. But I had just been smugly thinking of how impressed people will be when they learn of my success in getting away with that!
Sweats, shivers, headache, nausea and exhaustion were just the warm-up! Then Stage 2 came out to play – bed to bathroom to bed. I was so grateful for the lovely en suite room at my friend’s Bangalore home. I bet they were also glad not to be sharing a bathroom with ME!
So two and a half days with no appetite is something we sometimes long for when desiring to lose that couple of extra kilos. Right? But this was not a pleasant way to do so. Especially when the taxi arrives to take me the 75 minute ride to the airport and I’m STILL on the throne having already taken two anti diarrhoea tablets an hour before!! And feeling weak, worried and wobbly from not eating much for two days, how on earth was I going to manage the stressful 24 hour, taxi- plane-plane-taxi-train-bus-train-car journey home to Spain!?
I bid farewell to my concerned hosts who had the quietest of houseguests over these few days. Babu, their regular and friendly driver stopped at a tiny roadside druggist for me. Little English was spoken but THE one important symptom repeated a few times, together with my white and anxious face, must have given enough clues to my desperate needs. A few yellow capsules were handed over. No packet or instructions but I was panicked and past being picky. I asked, “How many should I take?” “One.” he replied. “One per hour?” I queried. He looked puzzled at my question. I repeated it. “One”, he confirmed, still looking bemused. So “one” was taken. And….it did indeed work!!!
So my dear travelling friend. The name is Eldoper, (Loperamide Hydrochloride), otherwise known as a bowel paralizer.
NB This is NOT an advert or recommendation
domingo, 12 de febrero de 2012
BACK TO BANGALORE – THE LAST LEG OF THE JOURNEY
Sue and I left , the heavenly oasis of Quiet, the Healing Centre, Auroville for a 3 hour taxi ride to Tiruvannamalai (famous sacred hill and temple town). She checked in to the Singing Heart ashram then we went in to town for a delicious thali lunch (around 2.30 euros for two!)…..little did I know that I wouldn´t eat again for 41 hours.
Super Saviour Sue from Sheffield shoved to secure me a seat on the crowded Bangalore bus. BUS?!!....An ancient, dusty, rusty green tin can on wheels, .no luggage rack so 6 hours with a bag on my knee, wedged in between 2 Indian ladies who nodded off on my shoulder. And the “road”? The driver zigzagged and juddered over crater sized holes. There was one toilet stop in 6 hours (yes yet another Indian toilet experience).
I had asked if the bus we went the central bus station…it didn´t. I ended up getting off with no idea where I was, with luggage. Thankful for the plentiful autorickshaws and after a bumpy 1 hour ride, I was back at the haven of Alistair and Amarjits home.
A 12 hour journey in total and I felt so ill I was in bed for 33 hours and broke a 41 hour fast with a slice of toast.
But the bug wasn´t finished with me yet. No Sir. The second stage began…….. see next exciting episode!!
Super Saviour Sue from Sheffield shoved to secure me a seat on the crowded Bangalore bus. BUS?!!....An ancient, dusty, rusty green tin can on wheels, .no luggage rack so 6 hours with a bag on my knee, wedged in between 2 Indian ladies who nodded off on my shoulder. And the “road”? The driver zigzagged and juddered over crater sized holes. There was one toilet stop in 6 hours (yes yet another Indian toilet experience).
I had asked if the bus we went the central bus station…it didn´t. I ended up getting off with no idea where I was, with luggage. Thankful for the plentiful autorickshaws and after a bumpy 1 hour ride, I was back at the haven of Alistair and Amarjits home.
A 12 hour journey in total and I felt so ill I was in bed for 33 hours and broke a 41 hour fast with a slice of toast.
But the bug wasn´t finished with me yet. No Sir. The second stage began…….. see next exciting episode!!
martes, 7 de febrero de 2012
WIMP IN INDIA…BUT I SURVIVED!
I should change the name of this blog to reflect how I perceive myself here!
What I envisaged was a calming, fulfilling spiritual pilgrimage, understanding Hinduism better and gaining insight into the Indian people.
However I now realise I wanted all that but at my exacting western standards. And THAT was just NOT going to happen!!
Yes the temples are amazing. Yes the people are beautiful, patient and smiling. Yes some of the country areas are pretty – so verdant and lush. But what I struggled to accept was the squalor.
There were moments when I tried to see the beauty within the filth and accept it, if not love it. However the spiritual philosophy of accepting what is and my social and environmental consciousness remained in conflict. There must be literally millions of plastic bags and containers poisoning this land.
How can India be one of the planet’s fastest growing economies yet be unable (or unwilling) to provide the most basic public service of sanitation. Forgive me dear reader if I have failed to see evidence of this. I am merely stating my own perceptions.
What I envisaged was a calming, fulfilling spiritual pilgrimage, understanding Hinduism better and gaining insight into the Indian people.
However I now realise I wanted all that but at my exacting western standards. And THAT was just NOT going to happen!!
Yes the temples are amazing. Yes the people are beautiful, patient and smiling. Yes some of the country areas are pretty – so verdant and lush. But what I struggled to accept was the squalor.
There were moments when I tried to see the beauty within the filth and accept it, if not love it. However the spiritual philosophy of accepting what is and my social and environmental consciousness remained in conflict. There must be literally millions of plastic bags and containers poisoning this land.
How can India be one of the planet’s fastest growing economies yet be unable (or unwilling) to provide the most basic public service of sanitation. Forgive me dear reader if I have failed to see evidence of this. I am merely stating my own perceptions.
LEAVING AUROVILLE BEHIND AND RETURNING TO BANGALORE
Sue and I have to change rooms this morning but only to the room above. We´ve been in “Uranus” and now, the last night, we´ll be in “Pluto.” You can guess what the other rooms are called. We have a balcony overlooking the ocean.
Tomorrow Sue heads off to Tiruvannamalai and its famous ashram for a few days before returning to “Quiet” Healing Centre, Auroville for her final 2 nights. Lucky Sue! To get back to Bangalore with luggage and the busyness of Indian transport seems daunting. However a kindly travel agent advises me that buses go every half hour from Tiru (you can understand why it´s shortened to this). This means that I can share taxi costs with Sue for the 2 hour plus journey thereby seeing another spiritual town and then catch a bus to Bangalore another 4 hours journey.
Tomorrow Sue heads off to Tiruvannamalai and its famous ashram for a few days before returning to “Quiet” Healing Centre, Auroville for her final 2 nights. Lucky Sue! To get back to Bangalore with luggage and the busyness of Indian transport seems daunting. However a kindly travel agent advises me that buses go every half hour from Tiru (you can understand why it´s shortened to this). This means that I can share taxi costs with Sue for the 2 hour plus journey thereby seeing another spiritual town and then catch a bus to Bangalore another 4 hours journey.
OH NOW I AM A VERY HAPPY LADY AT “QUIET”, THE HEALING CENTRE, AUROVILLE.
After a few nights roughing it in basic accommodation, and thanks to Sue being willing to split her room costs with me, I now have 3 glorious nights at the beach. Quiet is the name but the pounding ocean and birds make an enchanting sound.
The room we are sharing is so spacious and comfortable, one minute from the sand and set within lush gardens. The food is the best I’ve had in India. Prepared by an Indian chef, three nutritious veggie meals are served up daily.
There´s a pool at blood temperature where water treatments (and swimming) take place. There’s a library, quiet spaces, hammocks in the gardens between palm trees and a large healing centre with many rooms offering varied treatments at around 16 – 25 euros. (expensive perhaps for Indians but good value for the many Europeans here).
And best of all are the guests….fascinating spiritual people and every conversation is a delight.
This luxury is excellent value at 3100 or 3400 rupees (around 47 euros) for a double room and full board.
This is like heaven on earth…and it´s SPOTLESSLY CLEAN!!!!
The room we are sharing is so spacious and comfortable, one minute from the sand and set within lush gardens. The food is the best I’ve had in India. Prepared by an Indian chef, three nutritious veggie meals are served up daily.
There´s a pool at blood temperature where water treatments (and swimming) take place. There’s a library, quiet spaces, hammocks in the gardens between palm trees and a large healing centre with many rooms offering varied treatments at around 16 – 25 euros. (expensive perhaps for Indians but good value for the many Europeans here).
And best of all are the guests….fascinating spiritual people and every conversation is a delight.
This luxury is excellent value at 3100 or 3400 rupees (around 47 euros) for a double room and full board.
This is like heaven on earth…and it´s SPOTLESSLY CLEAN!!!!
AUROVILLE – INTERNATIONAL COMMUNITY PROMOTING HUMAN UNITY
I first heard of Auroville while attending another well known spiritual community – Findhorn Foundation in Scotland. The lady who told me about it said I should go there when visiting that area in India (it’s 14 kilometres north of Pondicherry).
Some describe it as Utopia. Some say it’s a New Age idealistic enclave. Whatever is said about it, there’s no denying the philosophy behind it is well intentioned.
The concept came from The Mother, a spiritual guru and follower of Sri Aurobindo a much revered philosopher and poet. She stated – “There should be somewhere upon earth a place no nation could claim as its sole property, a place where all human beings of good will, sincere in their aspiration, could live freely as citizens of the world, obeying one single authority, that of the supreme Truth; a place of peace, concord, harmony, where all the fighting instincts of man would be used exclusively to conquer the causes of his suffering and misery, to surmount his weakness and ignorance, to triumph over his limitations and incapacities; a place where the needs of the spirit and the care for progress would get precedence over the satisfaction of desires and passions, the seeking for pleasures and material enjoyment.”
In short it’s about promoting human unity.
Started in 1968 it now is over 2500 acres. There are 2300 Aurovilians from 40 nations and many more who come to experience how this all works. The background and evolution make interesting reading. www.auroville.org
I met up with Betty who now lives within this town and her enthusiasm is catching. The Visitor Centre where we meet up provides an attractive courtyard setting and a good variety of Indian and European vegetarian food. An exhibition area explains the concept and there are a few Auroville shops and boutiques. Auroville has its own branded goods especially clothes manufactured within its boundaries. The nicest shops I´ve yet seen in India are here…and they provide work for local people with ethical ideals…using organic cotton is one example.
It´s a huge township and Sue and I hired a guide and tuktuk (autorickshaw) to take us around. In 3 hours we had only scratched the surface...there is so much to see. Signposts point to sectors such as Courage, Light, Sincerity, Discipline, Acceptance, Bliss etc. There are factories, creative art centres, libraries, education centres, organic farms, guest houses etc. etc.
At the heart of Auroville stands the magnificent Matrimandir, a huge golden sphere containing a white marble chamber in which sunlight pours down upon a crystal globe of 70 cm in diameter. This light beam then passes on down through the building to another large crystal outside in the centre of a water feature of white marble lotus leaved shaped steps.
Entry to Matrimandir is by pass only and there are certain procedures before we can get inside. This makes it impossible for the casually curious to gain easy access. The Mother wanted it to be for serious spiritually minded people.
No photos are allowed (personal belongings are left behind) so I tried to record within my memory what it looks like inside. Surreal. Beautiful. Stunning. All white (we are provided with white socks to protect the marble and white carpet).
Do you recall the part in the film Close Encounters where the volunteer earthlings silently and slowly climb up the ramp, leading in to the spaceship in single file? Well it looked and felt like that. We spiralled up and up till we arrived at the inner chamber….high domed ceiling, round, white cushions placed around the crystal, where around 80 of us sat in silent “concentration” for 15 minutes.
It was an intense and amazing spiritual experience.
The structure took 37 years to complete. Millions of tiny gold leaf (gold from donated jewellery) and glass bricks comprise the huge disks which cover it as a representation of the Sun. Viewing the outside surrounded by lovingly cared for gardens, does not prepare you for the inside. If you saw it in a futuristic SciFi movie you´d think it was done by a special effects team. But the Matrimandir is real. Awesome.
Auroville provides an astonishing array of events and activities to the locals and guests…most are FREE! Sue and I attended a Bollywood dance class (200 rupees). There was a trip to Sadhana Forest to learn about the sustainability and reforestation project there. This with organic vegan meal, film, guided tour around the forest and bus was free and around 100 of us went.
We went to the cinemas to see “In Transition” about sustainability. Of course Auroville featured in this excellent docufilm. We saw “John of God” about the respected Brazilian healer. Then there was the inauguration of a brand new arts and culture hall, Cripa. It has specially designed acoustics and sprung wooden floor. The Auroville Choir sang classical music from around the world for an hour. The organisers had decorated the paths leading to the hall with drawings on the red soil and flowers etc. It is surrounded by the lush greenery typical of Auroville. A magical experience being part of this innovation attended by a few hundred international people.
The following night there was another concert by French pianist, Marc Vella who travels around playing with local musicians and singers wherever he goes. What a talent and a beautiful soul. (he looks like Mr Bean with curly hair!)
Some describe it as Utopia. Some say it’s a New Age idealistic enclave. Whatever is said about it, there’s no denying the philosophy behind it is well intentioned.
The concept came from The Mother, a spiritual guru and follower of Sri Aurobindo a much revered philosopher and poet. She stated – “There should be somewhere upon earth a place no nation could claim as its sole property, a place where all human beings of good will, sincere in their aspiration, could live freely as citizens of the world, obeying one single authority, that of the supreme Truth; a place of peace, concord, harmony, where all the fighting instincts of man would be used exclusively to conquer the causes of his suffering and misery, to surmount his weakness and ignorance, to triumph over his limitations and incapacities; a place where the needs of the spirit and the care for progress would get precedence over the satisfaction of desires and passions, the seeking for pleasures and material enjoyment.”
In short it’s about promoting human unity.
Started in 1968 it now is over 2500 acres. There are 2300 Aurovilians from 40 nations and many more who come to experience how this all works. The background and evolution make interesting reading. www.auroville.org
I met up with Betty who now lives within this town and her enthusiasm is catching. The Visitor Centre where we meet up provides an attractive courtyard setting and a good variety of Indian and European vegetarian food. An exhibition area explains the concept and there are a few Auroville shops and boutiques. Auroville has its own branded goods especially clothes manufactured within its boundaries. The nicest shops I´ve yet seen in India are here…and they provide work for local people with ethical ideals…using organic cotton is one example.
It´s a huge township and Sue and I hired a guide and tuktuk (autorickshaw) to take us around. In 3 hours we had only scratched the surface...there is so much to see. Signposts point to sectors such as Courage, Light, Sincerity, Discipline, Acceptance, Bliss etc. There are factories, creative art centres, libraries, education centres, organic farms, guest houses etc. etc.
At the heart of Auroville stands the magnificent Matrimandir, a huge golden sphere containing a white marble chamber in which sunlight pours down upon a crystal globe of 70 cm in diameter. This light beam then passes on down through the building to another large crystal outside in the centre of a water feature of white marble lotus leaved shaped steps.
Entry to Matrimandir is by pass only and there are certain procedures before we can get inside. This makes it impossible for the casually curious to gain easy access. The Mother wanted it to be for serious spiritually minded people.
No photos are allowed (personal belongings are left behind) so I tried to record within my memory what it looks like inside. Surreal. Beautiful. Stunning. All white (we are provided with white socks to protect the marble and white carpet).
Do you recall the part in the film Close Encounters where the volunteer earthlings silently and slowly climb up the ramp, leading in to the spaceship in single file? Well it looked and felt like that. We spiralled up and up till we arrived at the inner chamber….high domed ceiling, round, white cushions placed around the crystal, where around 80 of us sat in silent “concentration” for 15 minutes.
It was an intense and amazing spiritual experience.
The structure took 37 years to complete. Millions of tiny gold leaf (gold from donated jewellery) and glass bricks comprise the huge disks which cover it as a representation of the Sun. Viewing the outside surrounded by lovingly cared for gardens, does not prepare you for the inside. If you saw it in a futuristic SciFi movie you´d think it was done by a special effects team. But the Matrimandir is real. Awesome.
Auroville provides an astonishing array of events and activities to the locals and guests…most are FREE! Sue and I attended a Bollywood dance class (200 rupees). There was a trip to Sadhana Forest to learn about the sustainability and reforestation project there. This with organic vegan meal, film, guided tour around the forest and bus was free and around 100 of us went.
We went to the cinemas to see “In Transition” about sustainability. Of course Auroville featured in this excellent docufilm. We saw “John of God” about the respected Brazilian healer. Then there was the inauguration of a brand new arts and culture hall, Cripa. It has specially designed acoustics and sprung wooden floor. The Auroville Choir sang classical music from around the world for an hour. The organisers had decorated the paths leading to the hall with drawings on the red soil and flowers etc. It is surrounded by the lush greenery typical of Auroville. A magical experience being part of this innovation attended by a few hundred international people.
The following night there was another concert by French pianist, Marc Vella who travels around playing with local musicians and singers wherever he goes. What a talent and a beautiful soul. (he looks like Mr Bean with curly hair!)
MORE INDIAN HOTEL HIGHLIGHTS!
Accommodation is hard to come by at Auroville in high season. After three nights at the Tenderness Guest House (not part of Auroville community but within the area), Mr Ganesh announces he needs the room for other guests. He then asks me to follow him to another building (he owns a few places) and directs me to a Swedish woman’s room. Why? So I could ask this stranger (we had spoken only briefly) if I could share her twin bedded room!!! Can you imagine booking a hotel room and a stranger knocks at your door and asks if he/she can share it with you?!
Fortunately Sue, who´s in a lovely Auroville accommodation within the sector known as New Creation, says I can share her twin room for her last night there.
Sue, had made a reservation for another sector of Auroville for her last few nights and the whole complex is booked as are other sectors. I ask Ravi one of the auto rickshaw drivers we’ve been hiring if he knows of anywhere down at the beach near where Sue will be. He says his friend has a “wonderful guest house” at the beach and he bumps me along three kilometres to what is described on the hoarding as Nature Loft – a Serenity Beach Boutique Hotel.
The room is clean and has a western loo and ceiling fan. The décor and “furniture” are abysmal and the entrance area tiny and with bare earth where tiles were missing. But I am pretty desperate so I negotiate the price and manage to get 200 rupees shaved off. …that’s about 3 euros but haggling is expected and anyone who pays the asked for 1000 is being ripped off anyway.
I walk along the grainy sand narrow beach to where Sue is now settling in. Now this place, in the Auroville sector named Quiet- The Healing Centre, is about as far away as you can get from the so called “boutique” hotel I was going to spend the next few nights in! Situated a minute’s walk from the Bay of Bengal, fresh, clean, stylish, beautiful gardens, an open air café area, super attentive staff taking bookings for luxury therapies…..need I continue?! Sue invites me to share her room and I am delighted to do so.
.My Saviour Sue describes the mouth watering veggie lunch she’s enjoyed (I had a fried egg and toast in an open air thatched roof café near my ‘boutique hotel’). Three nutritious meals, unlimited drinks (no alcohol) free internet and even a laundry service is included in the rate. I’ll stick to my dump for one night as agreed and join Sue the following morning. Sue heads off to have a massage (this Garden of Eden offers just about every treatment I had heard of and a few unknown ones).
I decide to walk back along the main road. It’s the usual – rubbish lined hovels for houses, dead rat, no pavement, dirty streams and fast flowing traffic skimming past me so close that I can feel the heat from the exhaust pipes. Phew I make it back in one piece.
Later on I shower (no hot water) in the dark as can´t find light switch and head out to the lunch time visited café for food. The streets are dark, empty, stray dogs eye me hungrily and the one and only eating place is …..closed.
There is the tiniest hut (more like a narrow cupboard) where a young lad, around 10, is selling snacks. I buy 2 bananas and a packet of crisps and shuffle back to my inhospitable room to have ´dinner´.
Fortunately Sue, who´s in a lovely Auroville accommodation within the sector known as New Creation, says I can share her twin room for her last night there.
Sue, had made a reservation for another sector of Auroville for her last few nights and the whole complex is booked as are other sectors. I ask Ravi one of the auto rickshaw drivers we’ve been hiring if he knows of anywhere down at the beach near where Sue will be. He says his friend has a “wonderful guest house” at the beach and he bumps me along three kilometres to what is described on the hoarding as Nature Loft – a Serenity Beach Boutique Hotel.
The room is clean and has a western loo and ceiling fan. The décor and “furniture” are abysmal and the entrance area tiny and with bare earth where tiles were missing. But I am pretty desperate so I negotiate the price and manage to get 200 rupees shaved off. …that’s about 3 euros but haggling is expected and anyone who pays the asked for 1000 is being ripped off anyway.
I walk along the grainy sand narrow beach to where Sue is now settling in. Now this place, in the Auroville sector named Quiet- The Healing Centre, is about as far away as you can get from the so called “boutique” hotel I was going to spend the next few nights in! Situated a minute’s walk from the Bay of Bengal, fresh, clean, stylish, beautiful gardens, an open air café area, super attentive staff taking bookings for luxury therapies…..need I continue?! Sue invites me to share her room and I am delighted to do so.
.My Saviour Sue describes the mouth watering veggie lunch she’s enjoyed (I had a fried egg and toast in an open air thatched roof café near my ‘boutique hotel’). Three nutritious meals, unlimited drinks (no alcohol) free internet and even a laundry service is included in the rate. I’ll stick to my dump for one night as agreed and join Sue the following morning. Sue heads off to have a massage (this Garden of Eden offers just about every treatment I had heard of and a few unknown ones).
I decide to walk back along the main road. It’s the usual – rubbish lined hovels for houses, dead rat, no pavement, dirty streams and fast flowing traffic skimming past me so close that I can feel the heat from the exhaust pipes. Phew I make it back in one piece.
Later on I shower (no hot water) in the dark as can´t find light switch and head out to the lunch time visited café for food. The streets are dark, empty, stray dogs eye me hungrily and the one and only eating place is …..closed.
There is the tiniest hut (more like a narrow cupboard) where a young lad, around 10, is selling snacks. I buy 2 bananas and a packet of crisps and shuffle back to my inhospitable room to have ´dinner´.
miércoles, 1 de febrero de 2012
COINCIDENCES, COINCIDENCES AND MORE COINCIDENCES…
I have already mentioned the strange ´coincidences´ of how Betty and I kept bumping in to each other in Spain over several years without really getting to know each other. And how I found out she moved to Auroville near Pondicherry where I was heading. It was lovely seeing her here settled in after only 6 weeks and very happy.
On my last morning at hotel Ginger, Ponticherry I got chatting to a very attractive, mature, well educated India man at breakfast. I thought, hallo, hallo….this is getting interesting. He said, “I saw you yesterday in a restaurant near the ashram”. (the one where I got the whole meal for 55 rupees (75 centimos). “Oh yes. This is looking hopeful”, says I to myself. Then with another sentence my hopes were dashed… “I was there with my wife and son.” :(
Later that day at Auroville (8 kilometres away) I met him again with his family. Weird.
Then a young German man and I got chatting. His mother lives in Javea and he knows Oliva!
Another one…Ten days (and several hundred kilometres away) ago I had been seated next to a delightful English couple on the Ooty train trip. Today they walked into the Auroville Visitor Centre restaurant where I was having lunch. How lovely.
And today, at the Tenderness Guest house a new, handsome man arrived. The guest house has an outside area..kitchen with thatched roof..open sided.. where we guests can sit. It´s been super chatting to like-minded people from different countries. Well this new man was walking around the garden area singing OPERA! What a beautiful voice. He then came to sit beside me and ..guess what? He´s from Valencia!!! His name is Jose Enrique Requena Vilar and his web is www.elcaminodelavoz.com. Check him out!
So many ´coincidences' that I feel a great connection here. I have also met a lovely solo traveller, Sue from Sheffield and we've been having a good time. Last night we attended a Classical Indian dance class!!!! So maybe my future will be in Bollywood!
PS
More on Auroville to follow...what a place.
On my last morning at hotel Ginger, Ponticherry I got chatting to a very attractive, mature, well educated India man at breakfast. I thought, hallo, hallo….this is getting interesting. He said, “I saw you yesterday in a restaurant near the ashram”. (the one where I got the whole meal for 55 rupees (75 centimos). “Oh yes. This is looking hopeful”, says I to myself. Then with another sentence my hopes were dashed… “I was there with my wife and son.” :(
Later that day at Auroville (8 kilometres away) I met him again with his family. Weird.
Then a young German man and I got chatting. His mother lives in Javea and he knows Oliva!
Another one…Ten days (and several hundred kilometres away) ago I had been seated next to a delightful English couple on the Ooty train trip. Today they walked into the Auroville Visitor Centre restaurant where I was having lunch. How lovely.
And today, at the Tenderness Guest house a new, handsome man arrived. The guest house has an outside area..kitchen with thatched roof..open sided.. where we guests can sit. It´s been super chatting to like-minded people from different countries. Well this new man was walking around the garden area singing OPERA! What a beautiful voice. He then came to sit beside me and ..guess what? He´s from Valencia!!! His name is Jose Enrique Requena Vilar and his web is www.elcaminodelavoz.com. Check him out!
So many ´coincidences' that I feel a great connection here. I have also met a lovely solo traveller, Sue from Sheffield and we've been having a good time. Last night we attended a Classical Indian dance class!!!! So maybe my future will be in Bollywood!
PS
More on Auroville to follow...what a place.
OH HOW THE MIGHTY HAVE FALLEN…
OK. So I have been pretty mean and uppity about Indian loos, standards of décor, cleanliness, etc etc. Well isn’t it funny how life has a way of teaching us lessons!
I decided to visit Auroville, the world famous ‘New Age’ town 8 kilometres north of Pondicherry and had arranged to meet up with Betty (French but lived in Spain) whom I wrote about in an earlier blog. I got a taxi there, Betty showed me around (on back of her moped!) and suggested that I spend a few days to experience this extraordinary place.
To cut a long story short, I checked out of my modern but bland hotel in the centre of Pondicherry and got the taxi driver to find me the Tenderness Guest House that the accommodation office had mentioned may have availability. Accommodation within Auroville is like gold dust so this may be my only opportunity to be there.
I couldn´t view the room (kitchen and bathroom included) as it was before checkout hour so I left my luggage with Mr Ganesh, paid him the nightly rate of 700 rupees (10euros) and continued with driver a further 2 kilometres to the agreed meet up with Betty
So it was several hours later when I returned by auto rickshaw to see my abode. It’s in the ´country´ about 13 minutes walk to the village (but no street lights and dirt paths through woods). The owner rents out several properties, some like little huts with thatched roofs. Outside toilets or shared!
My self contained apartment is situated at the top of dodgy spiral stairs, contains a twin bedded room, kitchen area and bathroom. Sounds cool, yea? Except this place gave a new meaning to the expression ´basic accommodation´. No soap, towel, loo roll, crockery, hot water but plenty of jungle noises, bats and who knows what else!
The first thing I did was LAUGH.
Then I took photos so you too could laugh… at my expense!
If you could see me now!
SERVES ME RIGHT!
I decided to visit Auroville, the world famous ‘New Age’ town 8 kilometres north of Pondicherry and had arranged to meet up with Betty (French but lived in Spain) whom I wrote about in an earlier blog. I got a taxi there, Betty showed me around (on back of her moped!) and suggested that I spend a few days to experience this extraordinary place.
To cut a long story short, I checked out of my modern but bland hotel in the centre of Pondicherry and got the taxi driver to find me the Tenderness Guest House that the accommodation office had mentioned may have availability. Accommodation within Auroville is like gold dust so this may be my only opportunity to be there.
I couldn´t view the room (kitchen and bathroom included) as it was before checkout hour so I left my luggage with Mr Ganesh, paid him the nightly rate of 700 rupees (10euros) and continued with driver a further 2 kilometres to the agreed meet up with Betty
So it was several hours later when I returned by auto rickshaw to see my abode. It’s in the ´country´ about 13 minutes walk to the village (but no street lights and dirt paths through woods). The owner rents out several properties, some like little huts with thatched roofs. Outside toilets or shared!
My self contained apartment is situated at the top of dodgy spiral stairs, contains a twin bedded room, kitchen area and bathroom. Sounds cool, yea? Except this place gave a new meaning to the expression ´basic accommodation´. No soap, towel, loo roll, crockery, hot water but plenty of jungle noises, bats and who knows what else!
The first thing I did was LAUGH.
Then I took photos so you too could laugh… at my expense!
If you could see me now!
SERVES ME RIGHT!
domingo, 29 de enero de 2012
MADURAI - MOTORWAY MADNESS AND MAYHEM
“Mam,” explined my driver Swami, with pride, “this is new road since four years.” (Mis amigas españolas…esa gramática no es correcta). Great, I thought, a nice straight road so we can move along a bit faster today. Twisty pot holed, narrow dusty traffic packed roads were beginning to lose their charm for me.
Tolled roads are new to this part of India but the rules differ from our efficient E15 in Valencia (or any motorway I’ve been on, anywhere!).
Overtake? Just pick a side - any one will do as long as you honk loudly enough.
Pedestrians, cows even goats cross our path. Vehicles join this motorway by cutting across the traffic. Some of the strangest sights included – whole families speeding along on the one motorbike; kids on bicycles with friends on the back, an elderly man pushing his bike which is laden horizontally with long sugar cane, auto rickshaws (yellow and black open sided “taxis”) bulging with passengers (wonder if there is an upper limit on number of passengers and does the insurance cover for this?!). May I now point out that the above (with rickshaw excepted) were travelling IN THE WRONG DIRECTION and coming towards our car!
Signposting doesn’t seem to have caught up with this ´new´ road, so even capable Swami got it wrong at times ( I guessed he may have got a bit lost when we ran out of motorway and bounced along a narrow crater filled road and crossed over a railway track). And Swami´s reaction to all this (and my horrified gasps from the rear seat!)? He just laughs. Thankfully he has quick reactions and ABS!
Tolled roads are new to this part of India but the rules differ from our efficient E15 in Valencia (or any motorway I’ve been on, anywhere!).
Overtake? Just pick a side - any one will do as long as you honk loudly enough.
Pedestrians, cows even goats cross our path. Vehicles join this motorway by cutting across the traffic. Some of the strangest sights included – whole families speeding along on the one motorbike; kids on bicycles with friends on the back, an elderly man pushing his bike which is laden horizontally with long sugar cane, auto rickshaws (yellow and black open sided “taxis”) bulging with passengers (wonder if there is an upper limit on number of passengers and does the insurance cover for this?!). May I now point out that the above (with rickshaw excepted) were travelling IN THE WRONG DIRECTION and coming towards our car!
Signposting doesn’t seem to have caught up with this ´new´ road, so even capable Swami got it wrong at times ( I guessed he may have got a bit lost when we ran out of motorway and bounced along a narrow crater filled road and crossed over a railway track). And Swami´s reaction to all this (and my horrified gasps from the rear seat!)? He just laughs. Thankfully he has quick reactions and ABS!
sábado, 28 de enero de 2012
CLEANLINESS IS NEXT TO GODLINESS…..IN INDIA?
For a country which has so many Gods, Goddesses and Deities it would be welcome if just one of them was dedicated to cleanliness. The people wear immaculate clothes but they surround themselves with ankle deep filth. They sit or sleep on the ground next to open sewers running a metre away from their homes.
The sheer volume of rubbish seen everywhere with the exception of some remoter areas, has shocked me. Peeing outside is commonplace. I saw a poster asking people not to ‘defecate in the open’. Yes, I even witnessed that.
On several occasions I felt sick, tearful and fearful for mankind’s future on seeing the rubbish filled polluted waterways and the complete disregard for the environment. Plastics, toxic and slow to degrade, lie everywhere. In a town famous for its temples, Rameswaram, I have never seen such filth in any other town in any country. Words fail me.
Yet how incongruent is this?... I was asked to leave my shoes outside of a grotty internet hovel (one dusty PC). A man standing at the doorway tore up paper and tossed it on to the street. When I chided him he seemed not to get the message.
Gandhi taught the importance of cleanliness to his people and said, “There is dignity in cleaning up our own dirt”. The message, I fear, has not stuck.
The sheer volume of rubbish seen everywhere with the exception of some remoter areas, has shocked me. Peeing outside is commonplace. I saw a poster asking people not to ‘defecate in the open’. Yes, I even witnessed that.
On several occasions I felt sick, tearful and fearful for mankind’s future on seeing the rubbish filled polluted waterways and the complete disregard for the environment. Plastics, toxic and slow to degrade, lie everywhere. In a town famous for its temples, Rameswaram, I have never seen such filth in any other town in any country. Words fail me.
Yet how incongruent is this?... I was asked to leave my shoes outside of a grotty internet hovel (one dusty PC). A man standing at the doorway tore up paper and tossed it on to the street. When I chided him he seemed not to get the message.
Gandhi taught the importance of cleanliness to his people and said, “There is dignity in cleaning up our own dirt”. The message, I fear, has not stuck.
GANDHI, FATHER OF THE NATION….AND HOW HIS SATYAGRAHA MOVEMENT DEFEATED BRITAIN.
As this is my day of rebelling against my planned gruelling tour itinerary, I decided to visit Madurai´s Gandhi Museum which was mentioned in a guide book. Simple chronologically sequenced wall illustrations charted from the beginning of British control of India, Gandhi´s involvement, up to ´freedom fighters´ like Martin Luther King who revered Gandhi´s method and spirit.
His method of Satyagraha (firmness in fighting injustice by scrupulously truthful means) gained India its freedom. In a small,black painted room, in a glass case lay the blood-stained dhoti he wore when assassinated on the 30th of January 1948. I cried.
Some Gandhi gems:
“Non-violence is the greatest force at the disposal of mankind. It is mightier than the mightiest weapon of destruction devised by the ingenuity of man.”
“When I despair, I remember that all through history the way of truth and love has always won. There have been tyrants and murderers and for a time they seem invincible but in the end, they always fall – think of it, ALWAYS.”
How pertinent are his words for today’s troubled times.
His method of Satyagraha (firmness in fighting injustice by scrupulously truthful means) gained India its freedom. In a small,black painted room, in a glass case lay the blood-stained dhoti he wore when assassinated on the 30th of January 1948. I cried.
Some Gandhi gems:
“Non-violence is the greatest force at the disposal of mankind. It is mightier than the mightiest weapon of destruction devised by the ingenuity of man.”
“When I despair, I remember that all through history the way of truth and love has always won. There have been tyrants and murderers and for a time they seem invincible but in the end, they always fall – think of it, ALWAYS.”
How pertinent are his words for today’s troubled times.
ALL TEMPLED OUT – TAILORS, TOUTS AND TOUCHING SALES TECHNIQUES.
Today I rebelled against the itinerary. Yes I know I had requested a tour of South India’s most sacred sites but for now I’ve reached saturation point. So I break the news to Swami. “Today will be temple and palace free. We’re going shopping.”
He accompanied me to a photo print shop where the helpful young man confirmed what I thought…my laptop was not reading my photo card. He kindly loaded them on for me, though I still can’t figure out how to get them on to blog.
On to the first pedestrian only street I´ve seen. It’s properly paved, street sitters free, and next to a part of the temple. It´s also known for its tailor touts and large emporiums. Sheer bliss! I had wanted a favourite top copied, so chose silk/cotton in a wild coral fabric and left the chatty tailor for an hour to produce a miracle.
I then entered a well kept three storey emporium where a handsome man (perfect English) tried every trick in the book to get me to buy something. I did. Sales technique 4 out of 5. When I explained that I had no more room in my suitcase (the truth!), his older colleague jumped in with, “Buy another suitcase and I’ll carry it for you.” Sales technique 5 out of 5! Handsome One took me to his top floor to show me the views of temple….but also tried to sell me a silk Kashmiri carpet. It felt sooooo beautiful but he jokingly told me it cost 1000 rupees just to touch it. He had lovely carved wooden furniture and when I suggested he set up shop in Spain, he said OK…if I’d help him! Such good flirting fun…they have a sense of humour.
He accompanied me to a photo print shop where the helpful young man confirmed what I thought…my laptop was not reading my photo card. He kindly loaded them on for me, though I still can’t figure out how to get them on to blog.
On to the first pedestrian only street I´ve seen. It’s properly paved, street sitters free, and next to a part of the temple. It´s also known for its tailor touts and large emporiums. Sheer bliss! I had wanted a favourite top copied, so chose silk/cotton in a wild coral fabric and left the chatty tailor for an hour to produce a miracle.
I then entered a well kept three storey emporium where a handsome man (perfect English) tried every trick in the book to get me to buy something. I did. Sales technique 4 out of 5. When I explained that I had no more room in my suitcase (the truth!), his older colleague jumped in with, “Buy another suitcase and I’ll carry it for you.” Sales technique 5 out of 5! Handsome One took me to his top floor to show me the views of temple….but also tried to sell me a silk Kashmiri carpet. It felt sooooo beautiful but he jokingly told me it cost 1000 rupees just to touch it. He had lovely carved wooden furniture and when I suggested he set up shop in Spain, he said OK…if I’d help him! Such good flirting fun…they have a sense of humour.
3 BILLION YEARS OLD, 83 METRES HIGH, 437 STEPS (AND BEING SERENADED BY GUIDE!)
I am provided with Rajaram, a skinny, English speaking guide to show me around Trichy. We pass by an onion market….zillions of them heaped up on the ground. First stop Srirenganathaswamy (these long names take an age to type!) This temple is a main Shiva pilgrim site. Hoards are walking barefoot towards it. Twenty one towers including one of 13 stories, 14th century origins and priests with strange hairstyle in white robes and body markings. There’s a 1000 pillar hall used for events, ornate painted walls and detailed stone carvings. Guide pointed out a series of erotic depictions (so not completely family-friendly).
Second stop to river Karasi to see people bathing in a ritual for recently departed where ashes get scattered upon the water. Got ‘blessed’ by a sad-looking elephant for a few rupees (he pats heads with his trunk). Had a cup of chai (tea) at a filthy roadside shack (great taste) then on to third stop. Rock Fort is a huge mound older than the Himalayas or Greenland. Guide and I climb up the 437 chiselled steps with him enthusiastically pointing out views over the town (not that pleasant).
Then Rajaram insisted on singing me a ‘devotional song’ sung to ladies, in Tamil, his language. This performance was done loudly, in front of loads of visitors and went on for some time. No one batted an eyelid but I managed to get them to applaud at the end (mainly to cover my embarrassment!) Raj then asked a passer-by to take a photo of us and wants me to email it to him. Oh dear.
Left Raj. Swami and I drove on to Madurai and yet another guide waiting to show me “the finest temple in South India.” The Sri Meenakshi is dedicated to the ´fish-eyed’ Goddess, wife of Shiva. It´s an amazing 6 hectare complex with 12 gopurams (towers) and it is said 33 million (!) impressive sculptures of gods, demons and heroes. I am exhausted and thankfully this hotel is clean and comfortable. (more on hotel standards to follow).
Second stop to river Karasi to see people bathing in a ritual for recently departed where ashes get scattered upon the water. Got ‘blessed’ by a sad-looking elephant for a few rupees (he pats heads with his trunk). Had a cup of chai (tea) at a filthy roadside shack (great taste) then on to third stop. Rock Fort is a huge mound older than the Himalayas or Greenland. Guide and I climb up the 437 chiselled steps with him enthusiastically pointing out views over the town (not that pleasant).
Then Rajaram insisted on singing me a ‘devotional song’ sung to ladies, in Tamil, his language. This performance was done loudly, in front of loads of visitors and went on for some time. No one batted an eyelid but I managed to get them to applaud at the end (mainly to cover my embarrassment!) Raj then asked a passer-by to take a photo of us and wants me to email it to him. Oh dear.
Left Raj. Swami and I drove on to Madurai and yet another guide waiting to show me “the finest temple in South India.” The Sri Meenakshi is dedicated to the ´fish-eyed’ Goddess, wife of Shiva. It´s an amazing 6 hectare complex with 12 gopurams (towers) and it is said 33 million (!) impressive sculptures of gods, demons and heroes. I am exhausted and thankfully this hotel is clean and comfortable. (more on hotel standards to follow).
“YES MAM THIS IS A VERY FINE HOTEL.”
Was I expecting too much? Are ´western´ standards of hygiene so different? Should I bite my lip and smile when Indian tour agencies boast…”Yes mam, this is a very fine hotel.”?
So dirty cups and glasses, unclean mirrors, dust, mould splattered shower curtains (in fact mould in most bathrooms), greying towels, outdated, stained and scruffy fittings…is this normal? It seems, on looking around the stop over places chosen by my tour agency that I am in the best of a bad bunch. On the many miles travelled, it is a rare sight to see anything which resembles a ´decent’ hotel, despite some of the signs boasting ‘luxurious accommodation’.
Out on the streets on Trichy in the zone around my ´very fine hotel´, the stench of sewers is strong. I walk around for a few minute but quickly return to base to have a beer in the hotel bar (musty smelling). There are three short power cuts in the time it takes to down a beer in an empty bar.
There are always lots of staff around (very few women I note) but none putting much importance on cleaning. Three hotels out the 8 booked by my award winning agency have been reasonably good. I’ve grimaced a bit on entering some rooms. But the final straw happened on my birthday. I had been in a pretty grotty hotel the previous night (in a grotty town) and was glad to hit the trail, after breakfast, to the next stop. After a five and a half hour car journey I was looking forward to a nice shower and lunch. Well…the poor porter got the brunt of my first reaction on seeing the room. This led to them showing me three other rooms (all just as bad). I stomped down to reception and ranted….yes…screamed…. at the totally unperturbed personnel. I went back and took photos of the room and told them I was sending these to the tour agency. I was shaking with rage. My ever so patient driver called the agency and the hotel moved me to their best room (not perfect by any means) with the agency agreeing to pay the extra. What a nerve they have!
PS Today´s hotel is ´very fine´!!! The staff have presented me with a birthday present (a huge and garish sandalwood garland a bit like a Mad Masonic sash ....and a big cake with ´Mrs Wilma Margaret´ iced on it!!!
So dirty cups and glasses, unclean mirrors, dust, mould splattered shower curtains (in fact mould in most bathrooms), greying towels, outdated, stained and scruffy fittings…is this normal? It seems, on looking around the stop over places chosen by my tour agency that I am in the best of a bad bunch. On the many miles travelled, it is a rare sight to see anything which resembles a ´decent’ hotel, despite some of the signs boasting ‘luxurious accommodation’.
Out on the streets on Trichy in the zone around my ´very fine hotel´, the stench of sewers is strong. I walk around for a few minute but quickly return to base to have a beer in the hotel bar (musty smelling). There are three short power cuts in the time it takes to down a beer in an empty bar.
There are always lots of staff around (very few women I note) but none putting much importance on cleaning. Three hotels out the 8 booked by my award winning agency have been reasonably good. I’ve grimaced a bit on entering some rooms. But the final straw happened on my birthday. I had been in a pretty grotty hotel the previous night (in a grotty town) and was glad to hit the trail, after breakfast, to the next stop. After a five and a half hour car journey I was looking forward to a nice shower and lunch. Well…the poor porter got the brunt of my first reaction on seeing the room. This led to them showing me three other rooms (all just as bad). I stomped down to reception and ranted….yes…screamed…. at the totally unperturbed personnel. I went back and took photos of the room and told them I was sending these to the tour agency. I was shaking with rage. My ever so patient driver called the agency and the hotel moved me to their best room (not perfect by any means) with the agency agreeing to pay the extra. What a nerve they have!
PS Today´s hotel is ´very fine´!!! The staff have presented me with a birthday present (a huge and garish sandalwood garland a bit like a Mad Masonic sash ....and a big cake with ´Mrs Wilma Margaret´ iced on it!!!
miércoles, 25 de enero de 2012
THE HEAD WOBBLE…WHAT IS THAT ABOUT!?
It’s intrinsically part of Indian communication and fascinating to observe. But I am no closer to defining its meaning. I’ve even attempted to replicate it myself. I just look silly. So here’s a brief summary of the possibilities.
“Yes.” “No”. “Perhaps.” “I’m not sure.” "How are you?" “I’ve no idea what you’re saying but I may just get away with a smile and a head wobble.”
If I find out more, I´ll update this information!
“Yes.” “No”. “Perhaps.” “I’m not sure.” "How are you?" “I’ve no idea what you’re saying but I may just get away with a smile and a head wobble.”
If I find out more, I´ll update this information!
lunes, 23 de enero de 2012
Being left handed in India...
Following on from the toilet topic of previous blog, the left hand is for bum cleaning (nose clearing/picking too I observe). The right is for food handling or passing things to others. It´s quite a skill breaking up nan bread or chappatti with one hand and even more so if one is a leftie. It´s OK to eat from a spoon or fork, drink from a cup held in left hand but when possible, use the right.
For the first time in my life I felt almost embarassed being a south paw when an Indian guy watched me writing and made a remark, "So you´re left handed." I have to almost sit on my left hand at table. Today I automatically made the eating gesture with my 'únclean' hand to my driver to ask if he´d eaten (his english isn´t great) and realised I may have caused offence!
For the first time in my life I felt almost embarassed being a south paw when an Indian guy watched me writing and made a remark, "So you´re left handed." I have to almost sit on my left hand at table. Today I automatically made the eating gesture with my 'únclean' hand to my driver to ask if he´d eaten (his english isn´t great) and realised I may have caused offence!
Did I mention the toilets?....
Hello, Hola to all blog followers. Made a boob in the sequence so hope you have managed to see where it begins!....
Another observation on India....
Tip...go whenever you are anywhere near a flush one. The
public ´pay and use' ones (like gold dust)are likely to be a bit cleaner. I thought I´d spend 3 rupees at a railway station. Oh no....hole in the floor, two tiled bits for the feet. Now I´m carrying a small rucksack AND a bag containing loo roll, water, etc. There´s nowhere to hang them up and laying them on a sodden, dirty floor is not an option. So I hold on to the bags with one hand while dealing with trousers with other. Am trying to not widdle on trousers, avoid hems getting wet from floor and hoping I don´t drop any belongings into the hole. Legs unaccustomed to the squatting position go shaky on standing up so hoping I don´t fall backwards. Struggle to get trousers up and buttoned. Am congratulating myself on this achievement and trying to see the humour in it. That´s when I discover there was a 'western style´ loo behind another door!
In general there´s either two plastic buckets in the loos or/and a minature shower hanging next to WC. No paper provided so use your imagination for the purpose of these items! Now I'm wondering how the sari wearing ladies manage...think about that if you will!
Another observation on India....
Tip...go whenever you are anywhere near a flush one. The
public ´pay and use' ones (like gold dust)are likely to be a bit cleaner. I thought I´d spend 3 rupees at a railway station. Oh no....hole in the floor, two tiled bits for the feet. Now I´m carrying a small rucksack AND a bag containing loo roll, water, etc. There´s nowhere to hang them up and laying them on a sodden, dirty floor is not an option. So I hold on to the bags with one hand while dealing with trousers with other. Am trying to not widdle on trousers, avoid hems getting wet from floor and hoping I don´t drop any belongings into the hole. Legs unaccustomed to the squatting position go shaky on standing up so hoping I don´t fall backwards. Struggle to get trousers up and buttoned. Am congratulating myself on this achievement and trying to see the humour in it. That´s when I discover there was a 'western style´ loo behind another door!
In general there´s either two plastic buckets in the loos or/and a minature shower hanging next to WC. No paper provided so use your imagination for the purpose of these items! Now I'm wondering how the sari wearing ladies manage...think about that if you will!
domingo, 22 de enero de 2012
OOTY TOY TRAIN AWAITS…
22 Jan. 12
Up early to catch 09.15 train from Ooty to Conoor. This is such a popular thing to do. Gorgeous views from this ancient blue train. One and a quarter hours later arrived in Coonoor where my driver was waiting. We headed for Coimbatore and with hair pin bend roads, huge forest covered mountains and waterfalls, it could almost have been Scotland! Well except for dodging the monkeys in the middle of the road. Oh and the fact that drivers try and make 3 lanes out of what is really one and a half! It’s nice to sit in the back like a memsab and let Shwamy cope with the challenges.
We passed through some towns with shacks, dirt, bare footed inhabitants lolling around, goats munching on roadside rubbish and the usual cows of course. The poverty is evident but what has impressed me is the fantastic colour coordination of even the poorest looking woman. Even whole families riding on a single motor cycle appear to be colour coordinated and clean. Now anyone who knows me will know how I love this. So hats off (!) to these women for looking so elegant in quite disgusting (to me at any rate) surroundings.
The Rathna Residency Hotel in industrial Coimbatore is OK but like everything else needs a good scrub and repainting. Oh and the ‘pretty’ views are over a railway line.
Am soon off out, this time to visit Isha Dyanalingam Yogic Centre with its famous domed temple where meditation is reputed to be heightened. Hundreds are there and as the only white face, I’m a bit confused about the rituals. I keep forgetting about the taking off of shoes (someone always stops me) and the leaving bags, cameras, mobiles in a cloakroom. Ok there are longwinded explanations on display but I’d prefer someone to guide me. I follow the others but they seem to be climbing up high, steep ladders with offerings in hand then down the other side. I decide to pass on this part and focus on the beautiful silence of this huge dome. A bell rings and everyone gets up and exits while the next lot file in for their shot at sitting on the floor to meditate. I wait for an extra 15 minutes to absorb the ambience. At the end I copy the others and put a spot of white paste on my forehead. Off to find my shoes and reclaim my bag. The slogan of this ashram is, “A world full of Love, Light and Laughter...its time has come. Let us make it happen!” And I say….AMEN to that! However I haven´t yet got my head around the need for buying weird stuff to offer these idols. They are also selling things depending on what you want to change in your life….yellow wrist threads, pieces of cloth..etc. I do however feel very calm after this and am pleased to see my driver had also entered and we were both wearing our yellow forehead markings
On the way back to hotel our car struck a hole in the middle of the road. Driver says it´s OK. The roads are full of potholes to add to the general bedlam of driving here.
Too zonked to seek a restaurant in this bizarre place, I put on my salwar kameez (Indian style) and go to dine on roof terrace restaurant. Full of men and no one bats an eyelid. I thought it would be akin to seeing an Indian lady dressed in a kilt!
Up early to catch 09.15 train from Ooty to Conoor. This is such a popular thing to do. Gorgeous views from this ancient blue train. One and a quarter hours later arrived in Coonoor where my driver was waiting. We headed for Coimbatore and with hair pin bend roads, huge forest covered mountains and waterfalls, it could almost have been Scotland! Well except for dodging the monkeys in the middle of the road. Oh and the fact that drivers try and make 3 lanes out of what is really one and a half! It’s nice to sit in the back like a memsab and let Shwamy cope with the challenges.
We passed through some towns with shacks, dirt, bare footed inhabitants lolling around, goats munching on roadside rubbish and the usual cows of course. The poverty is evident but what has impressed me is the fantastic colour coordination of even the poorest looking woman. Even whole families riding on a single motor cycle appear to be colour coordinated and clean. Now anyone who knows me will know how I love this. So hats off (!) to these women for looking so elegant in quite disgusting (to me at any rate) surroundings.
The Rathna Residency Hotel in industrial Coimbatore is OK but like everything else needs a good scrub and repainting. Oh and the ‘pretty’ views are over a railway line.
Am soon off out, this time to visit Isha Dyanalingam Yogic Centre with its famous domed temple where meditation is reputed to be heightened. Hundreds are there and as the only white face, I’m a bit confused about the rituals. I keep forgetting about the taking off of shoes (someone always stops me) and the leaving bags, cameras, mobiles in a cloakroom. Ok there are longwinded explanations on display but I’d prefer someone to guide me. I follow the others but they seem to be climbing up high, steep ladders with offerings in hand then down the other side. I decide to pass on this part and focus on the beautiful silence of this huge dome. A bell rings and everyone gets up and exits while the next lot file in for their shot at sitting on the floor to meditate. I wait for an extra 15 minutes to absorb the ambience. At the end I copy the others and put a spot of white paste on my forehead. Off to find my shoes and reclaim my bag. The slogan of this ashram is, “A world full of Love, Light and Laughter...its time has come. Let us make it happen!” And I say….AMEN to that! However I haven´t yet got my head around the need for buying weird stuff to offer these idols. They are also selling things depending on what you want to change in your life….yellow wrist threads, pieces of cloth..etc. I do however feel very calm after this and am pleased to see my driver had also entered and we were both wearing our yellow forehead markings
On the way back to hotel our car struck a hole in the middle of the road. Driver says it´s OK. The roads are full of potholes to add to the general bedlam of driving here.
Too zonked to seek a restaurant in this bizarre place, I put on my salwar kameez (Indian style) and go to dine on roof terrace restaurant. Full of men and no one bats an eyelid. I thought it would be akin to seeing an Indian lady dressed in a kilt!
HOW THE OTHER HALF LIVE…
21 Jan. 12
Left nice hotel without time to use gym or pool and this is possibly the best hotel booked. Stopped for tea at the fabulous Laitha Palace Hotel which a kindly Raj gifted to his wife. Just where are these generous blokes these days?!! At around 200 euros per night only the rich Indians could afford this ostentatious luxury. A full time maid here earns about 60 euros per month. A glass, yes a glass, of wine in this palace costs 15euros!!!! Boy, am I going to appreciate my Spanish vino on return.
Leaving behind the city, we climbed up to beautiful green Bandipur National Park. Saw lots of monkeys, deer and a few elephants but the chances of glimpsing a tiger is remote. Stopped for chai at a dirty shack and took photos of the UGG toilets.
Arrived at Brookdale Village where I have a “cottage”. It´s cleanish and basic but does have beautiful views over tea plantations and mountains.
An hour more into Ooty to visit Botanic Gardens and Boating Lake (full of tacky stalls so didn´t stay). On way back climbed up a hill with my driver to a lovely place where movies are filmed. Back at hotel for a meal. No one else here in restaurant…no music, silence and not even a beer! Four Indian men had lit a fire in the grounds and invited me to chat. I had read that Indians will ask foreigners blunt question and it was true to its word. Several people have asked me, “Where is you country”? “What is your name?” then, apparently satisfied, they move away. One of these gentlemen went several steps beyond this. “Where are you travelling to?” “How much did you pay?” And …”Give me your email address”!...Scuttled back to room and spent 15 minutes trying to get a small frog to leave. I put a bucket over him and got him outside. (He appeared back the following morning!)
I read in the newspapers that Indian graduates studying in UK are returning to India to get work. Maybe some could research the tourist facilities and come up with a way to clean up the rubbish that is just left at roadside….despite posters urging people to think of the environment.
Left nice hotel without time to use gym or pool and this is possibly the best hotel booked. Stopped for tea at the fabulous Laitha Palace Hotel which a kindly Raj gifted to his wife. Just where are these generous blokes these days?!! At around 200 euros per night only the rich Indians could afford this ostentatious luxury. A full time maid here earns about 60 euros per month. A glass, yes a glass, of wine in this palace costs 15euros!!!! Boy, am I going to appreciate my Spanish vino on return.
Leaving behind the city, we climbed up to beautiful green Bandipur National Park. Saw lots of monkeys, deer and a few elephants but the chances of glimpsing a tiger is remote. Stopped for chai at a dirty shack and took photos of the UGG toilets.
Arrived at Brookdale Village where I have a “cottage”. It´s cleanish and basic but does have beautiful views over tea plantations and mountains.
An hour more into Ooty to visit Botanic Gardens and Boating Lake (full of tacky stalls so didn´t stay). On way back climbed up a hill with my driver to a lovely place where movies are filmed. Back at hotel for a meal. No one else here in restaurant…no music, silence and not even a beer! Four Indian men had lit a fire in the grounds and invited me to chat. I had read that Indians will ask foreigners blunt question and it was true to its word. Several people have asked me, “Where is you country”? “What is your name?” then, apparently satisfied, they move away. One of these gentlemen went several steps beyond this. “Where are you travelling to?” “How much did you pay?” And …”Give me your email address”!...Scuttled back to room and spent 15 minutes trying to get a small frog to leave. I put a bucket over him and got him outside. (He appeared back the following morning!)
I read in the newspapers that Indian graduates studying in UK are returning to India to get work. Maybe some could research the tourist facilities and come up with a way to clean up the rubbish that is just left at roadside….despite posters urging people to think of the environment.
BREAKFAST IN THE JUNGLE…
20th January
Hotel Pai Vista caters for the up-and-coming wealthy Indians. Good breakfast choices but I can´t face curry, so cornflakes will do.
Off with driver to famous sacred hill temple- Chamundeeshwari. Thousands heading there. Being a temple novice here it was all a bit much knowing what to do. Leave shoes in a special area, pay entrance (foreigners pay several times more), knowing where to go….a tout guide helped me through the complex process and showed me how to place the offerings of flowers and sprinkle red powder. I left with 3 circles on forehead…red…ash…and vermillion. I assume all mean ‘luck’ but that comes at a price…all want their ´tips´. So religious devotion is big business…..you can even get faster access by paying more!
On to Mysore Palace supposed to be the most beautiful after Buckingham? Well that´s what guide told me.. More procedures…entrance fee, leave camera, security checks, shoes off, pay for guide…etc. The palace was indeed stunning. Glasgow played its part providing ornate metalwork and beautiful stained glass ceilings. Marble,teak,crystal,tiles, silver and lots of gold… all over the world. Walls full of portraits with 3-dimensional effects…the eyes and even the whole body followed you around…amazing.
On to Srirengapatna, palace of Sultan Tipi (Duke of Wellington lived there too 1799). Hoards of school children, some shoeless but wearing uniform ..some staring at me, the only white face and with painted brow.
On to another temple…mausoleum….etc but by this time I´ve had enough history (head buzzing). Get me to some shops driver! Mysore is famous for silk but nothing is to my taste. Later I went off on own to very busy shopping street and got shoes (not particularly a bargain). Park Lane Hotel restaurant for nice light curry, nan, beer and masala chai..all for 4.50 euros. Ich sproch mit zwei deutschen Mädchen, die auch hier fahren. Got a bit lost finding my hotel and police guided me. Crazily dangerous crossing roads as no pedestrian crossing is respected and roads/pavements need constant vigilance to avoid falling down a hole.
Hotel Pai Vista caters for the up-and-coming wealthy Indians. Good breakfast choices but I can´t face curry, so cornflakes will do.
Off with driver to famous sacred hill temple- Chamundeeshwari. Thousands heading there. Being a temple novice here it was all a bit much knowing what to do. Leave shoes in a special area, pay entrance (foreigners pay several times more), knowing where to go….a tout guide helped me through the complex process and showed me how to place the offerings of flowers and sprinkle red powder. I left with 3 circles on forehead…red…ash…and vermillion. I assume all mean ‘luck’ but that comes at a price…all want their ´tips´. So religious devotion is big business…..you can even get faster access by paying more!
On to Mysore Palace supposed to be the most beautiful after Buckingham? Well that´s what guide told me.. More procedures…entrance fee, leave camera, security checks, shoes off, pay for guide…etc. The palace was indeed stunning. Glasgow played its part providing ornate metalwork and beautiful stained glass ceilings. Marble,teak,crystal,tiles, silver and lots of gold… all over the world. Walls full of portraits with 3-dimensional effects…the eyes and even the whole body followed you around…amazing.
On to Srirengapatna, palace of Sultan Tipi (Duke of Wellington lived there too 1799). Hoards of school children, some shoeless but wearing uniform ..some staring at me, the only white face and with painted brow.
On to another temple…mausoleum….etc but by this time I´ve had enough history (head buzzing). Get me to some shops driver! Mysore is famous for silk but nothing is to my taste. Later I went off on own to very busy shopping street and got shoes (not particularly a bargain). Park Lane Hotel restaurant for nice light curry, nan, beer and masala chai..all for 4.50 euros. Ich sproch mit zwei deutschen Mädchen, die auch hier fahren. Got a bit lost finding my hotel and police guided me. Crazily dangerous crossing roads as no pedestrian crossing is respected and roads/pavements need constant vigilance to avoid falling down a hole.
BACK TO SCHOOL….
Thursday 19th January
This is the morning Amargit and other ladies do volunteer English teaching at a public school. I had taken over pencils, scissors, stencils, books etc and was keen for the children to get use of them. Amargit recommended selling the books at a fundraising day in order to buy shoes for the children. We arrived at a very rundown school building (one classroom). We started the class off with songs and a short reminder on Good Manners. Then the class was split up and Amargit and I worked with 8. They are so enthusiastic and delighted to receive a simple pencil. Getting attention from a redheaded white “Miss” proved to be quite an event as they crowded around me wanting to shake hands. The teachers are working with few resources….even the ´blackboard´ needs painting. A humbling experience and over too soon.
Time for a quick lunch, final packing and my pickup by Indian Panorama for my 10 day guided trip. Excellent first impressions from Tour Manager who came to present me to my driver, Shwami. One and a half hours to get out of Bangalore´s madly busy roads and heading for Mysore, 150 kilometers south. Passed through main coconut and sugar cane areas. And another town full of painted wooded rocking horses.
At last Mysore and highly regarded Hotel Pai Vista with European facilities. The driver took me an hours drive to view a 10 minute light/music/water display at Brindavan Gardens. Thousands go nightly to view this. To me it seemed an awful long trip to see it.
Back at hotel and dinner in the Jungle Restaurant complete with waiters wearing pith helmets. The only thing missing were the tigers! Starter, main veg curry and large beer came to around 7 euros....not bad for hotel prices.
This is the morning Amargit and other ladies do volunteer English teaching at a public school. I had taken over pencils, scissors, stencils, books etc and was keen for the children to get use of them. Amargit recommended selling the books at a fundraising day in order to buy shoes for the children. We arrived at a very rundown school building (one classroom). We started the class off with songs and a short reminder on Good Manners. Then the class was split up and Amargit and I worked with 8. They are so enthusiastic and delighted to receive a simple pencil. Getting attention from a redheaded white “Miss” proved to be quite an event as they crowded around me wanting to shake hands. The teachers are working with few resources….even the ´blackboard´ needs painting. A humbling experience and over too soon.
Time for a quick lunch, final packing and my pickup by Indian Panorama for my 10 day guided trip. Excellent first impressions from Tour Manager who came to present me to my driver, Shwami. One and a half hours to get out of Bangalore´s madly busy roads and heading for Mysore, 150 kilometers south. Passed through main coconut and sugar cane areas. And another town full of painted wooded rocking horses.
At last Mysore and highly regarded Hotel Pai Vista with European facilities. The driver took me an hours drive to view a 10 minute light/music/water display at Brindavan Gardens. Thousands go nightly to view this. To me it seemed an awful long trip to see it.
Back at hotel and dinner in the Jungle Restaurant complete with waiters wearing pith helmets. The only thing missing were the tigers! Starter, main veg curry and large beer came to around 7 euros....not bad for hotel prices.
ONCE MORE INTO THE BREACH…..
18th January
Those who can afford it hire a driver instead of using public transport (incredibly crowded) or driving their own car (complete madness on the roads)
Alistair and Amargits favourite and loyal driver is Babu and he picked us up this morning in his smart 7 seater Toyota. He knows where to buy everything and has the patience of a saint. Amargit is well prepared with a list of shops to attack. There’s a lot of buying to be done. First stop is an outdoor market where there were bargains in clothing and household goods. Fun with haggling. Next stop is the famous Commercial Street. Now if images of Oxford Street or Buchanan Street come to mind let me assure you this hectic shopping area is nothing like that. Bangalore has the worst pavements I’ve seen anywhere, so vigilance is a must to avoid accidents. Crossing roads is a risky business as all manner of vehicles jostle for space against zillions of others. Tiny shops up wooden steps are squeezed in between larger stores. Shopping bags usually have to be handed in to security too. After a few hours Amargit has a few bargains and I’m struggling to find the colour, or style I’d be happy to be seen in! Too many crazy patterns and weird colour combinations….I start to feel dizzy just looking at them. And my ideas of filling up a suitcase with quality cotton and unique T-shirts are fading as I see the strange styles and some prices much dearer than Primark! Lunch break is called for…a thali (mix of spicy curries, rice, soup (fiery hot), pickle, nan bread and chai in Woodies . Cost for two was 400 rupees (6 euros) but the toilet left a lot to be desired…..although it’s better than most!
Ready to get back on the road, our next stop in Brigade Road was to buy a new camera. Now I can start recording all this!
Those who can afford it hire a driver instead of using public transport (incredibly crowded) or driving their own car (complete madness on the roads)
Alistair and Amargits favourite and loyal driver is Babu and he picked us up this morning in his smart 7 seater Toyota. He knows where to buy everything and has the patience of a saint. Amargit is well prepared with a list of shops to attack. There’s a lot of buying to be done. First stop is an outdoor market where there were bargains in clothing and household goods. Fun with haggling. Next stop is the famous Commercial Street. Now if images of Oxford Street or Buchanan Street come to mind let me assure you this hectic shopping area is nothing like that. Bangalore has the worst pavements I’ve seen anywhere, so vigilance is a must to avoid accidents. Crossing roads is a risky business as all manner of vehicles jostle for space against zillions of others. Tiny shops up wooden steps are squeezed in between larger stores. Shopping bags usually have to be handed in to security too. After a few hours Amargit has a few bargains and I’m struggling to find the colour, or style I’d be happy to be seen in! Too many crazy patterns and weird colour combinations….I start to feel dizzy just looking at them. And my ideas of filling up a suitcase with quality cotton and unique T-shirts are fading as I see the strange styles and some prices much dearer than Primark! Lunch break is called for…a thali (mix of spicy curries, rice, soup (fiery hot), pickle, nan bread and chai in Woodies . Cost for two was 400 rupees (6 euros) but the toilet left a lot to be desired…..although it’s better than most!
Ready to get back on the road, our next stop in Brigade Road was to buy a new camera. Now I can start recording all this!
FIRST DAY IN INDIA…
Feeling refreshed and ready to start the planned shopping day, Alistair and I left to walk to nearby shopping mall. What a lovely gardened urbanisation…let´s take a photo! Oh no….camera not working. Called in at camera shop to get it repaired. Guy tells me it can’t be fixed. Hmmmm Is he just wanting to sell me a new one?. Must seek second opinion. Disappointed not to be loading up pictures on this Blog.
First Indian breakfast consisted of round rice cakes (Idlis) served with two small bowls of sauce…one spicy and the other liquid coconut chutney and then tried Masala Dosa which is a salty/sweet buttery pancake in a triangle shape and inside is spiced potato. This is also with the same dipping sauces. Trying not to think of the calories.
Alistair returned home to allow Amargit to join me for some retail therapy. I had packed very few clothes as I had this idea of buying lots of good quality bargain cotton clothes in Indian styles. After a few shops I was getting disheartened. Then a half hour taxi through busy, noisy Bangalore to a well-known store called Max cheered me up. A medium kurta , a short kurta (tops), a dupatta (crinkly scarf), and salwar (very baggy trousers) cost about 20 euros. I now feel authentically dressed…photos will follow! In such a hot country what surprises me is the women’s trouser styles. They are either very tight leggings which bunch up around ankles (too clingy for comfort) or huge baggy things with loads of pleats and fabric (“Does my bum look big in this”?). Comparing clothing with what we wear in the heat of Spain, it’s quite different. No shorts, bare arms or shoulders shown….but long pants and sleeves for protection against mozzies is a must. So far I haven´t seen any T-shirts that I would wear at home. Tomorrow is another shopping day…..I am seriously in need of more clothes.
First Indian breakfast consisted of round rice cakes (Idlis) served with two small bowls of sauce…one spicy and the other liquid coconut chutney and then tried Masala Dosa which is a salty/sweet buttery pancake in a triangle shape and inside is spiced potato. This is also with the same dipping sauces. Trying not to think of the calories.
Alistair returned home to allow Amargit to join me for some retail therapy. I had packed very few clothes as I had this idea of buying lots of good quality bargain cotton clothes in Indian styles. After a few shops I was getting disheartened. Then a half hour taxi through busy, noisy Bangalore to a well-known store called Max cheered me up. A medium kurta , a short kurta (tops), a dupatta (crinkly scarf), and salwar (very baggy trousers) cost about 20 euros. I now feel authentically dressed…photos will follow! In such a hot country what surprises me is the women’s trouser styles. They are either very tight leggings which bunch up around ankles (too clingy for comfort) or huge baggy things with loads of pleats and fabric (“Does my bum look big in this”?). Comparing clothing with what we wear in the heat of Spain, it’s quite different. No shorts, bare arms or shoulders shown….but long pants and sleeves for protection against mozzies is a must. So far I haven´t seen any T-shirts that I would wear at home. Tomorrow is another shopping day…..I am seriously in need of more clothes.
DONCHA JUST LOVE TRAVELLING?
All the hassles? Delays? Unexpected occurrences? All the paper needed. The technology needed to handle online booking, printing off boarding passes (that´s when the ink in your PC decides to dry up and the paper jams). And so many people asking to see your ticket….which means hunting through pockets in the rucksack while trying to keep an eye on luggage. Then hauling the dammed suitcase up on to the train, bus, security belt, luggage rack….. It only weighed 20 kilos at home but add that to the rucksack which seems to be gaining weight with every hour of the journey. And of course, being a woman, the shoulder bag which is stuffed to the gunnels….shoulders aching and only hours into the trip. Happy travelling. What do others do to make this hassle-free or is this a pipe dream?
And even before leaving the house, so many last minute things to do. Yes I did decide to do two washings. Yes I did decide to wash the floors. Yes the basura (rubbish) needs to be taken out….etc…etc.
Despite all the wonders of modern technology, surely travelling used to be less hassle, no? Or maybe it´s just another sign of ´getting on´ in years. I´m ready for a shoulder massage and am only on the high speed AVE from Valencia to Madrid. No WIFI either while hurtling along at 250 kilometers per hour. It´s dark outside so no views….well they´d probably be just a blurr anyway.
Hallo Mein Deutschlehrer! Ich habe ihn gesagt dass ich wurde ein bisschen, jeden Tag auf Deutsch schreiben. That´s enough for today…
Ok so far so good…
Para que lo sepáis mis amigos… hablantes españoles…
Oliva – Gandia- Valencia-change station-Ave to Madrid (arrived 15 mins early)- bus to airport-(2degrees and cold waiting for hotel bus pickup)-Hotel Axor (excellent). Midnight and about 4 hours sleep. Hotel bus to airport- Air France to Paris.
Now here´s where it starts to go astray… Zero degrees and plane is de-iced. Arrived at Paris a bit late. No worries. Only a 25 minute fast walk to other terminal. Arrived to a huge crowd slowly going through only two lines. Getting worried about time. Asked twice to staff. It´s OK..they will wait for you was the reply. Well they lied. Got to boarding gate…..fermé…cerrado….tancat…closed….geschliest!!!!!!!
Staff directed me to customer services of Air France who were quite unperturbed that the airport staff had told lies (they are not our staff…was the retort). Another woman arrived beside me…a lovely Indian lady, also going to Bangalore. Her flight from Zurich arrived a bit late and she received the same replies as I had….No worries!! So their solution was to put us on an Oman Air flight to Muskrat..WHERE?!!! Then we were to catch another flight to Bangalore. So we were sent away to another part of airport. We asked for help but the seven people working in this sector were hopeless. One said we may need visas to go to Oman!!!! So we decided to return to Air France to say we wanted to be put in an hotel overnight and fly out at the original flight time the following day. Believe me this took a lot of searching around airport. We hadn’t eaten ..apart from un trés petit croissant served onboard and were hungry, thirsty, tired, stressed and totally pissed off (súper enfadadas) with Air France and airport staff. They refused to put us up in hotel so back to plan B….Third time through all the security checks and wondering if our luggage would find us at the final destination!
Oman Air flight staff was as flight staff should be. We got the best in-flight meals I’ve had in a long time. And Runa, my travelling companion, was great company and we had some laughs over our experiences. So we arrived at Muskrat (only saw inside of the airport) then discovered that there was a 4 hour delay for the Bangalore flight. Hope you are still following this saga… To end this part..we did get to Bangalore, our luggage did too, and we were ONLY 10 hours behind schedule. We bid each other a fond farewell with promises to meet up before I head back.
An hour´s taxi ride to Alistair and Amargit´s home in the suburbs of Bangalore and a much needed tea. An ayurvedic masseuse came to give me a thorough oiling and pummelling of aching muscles (450 rupees….6Euros)…a bargain. Later on helped their 8 year old daughter , Anou, with homework. Their other daughter Jaya has chickenpox! I have my own bedroom ensuite and slept about 10 hours.
And even before leaving the house, so many last minute things to do. Yes I did decide to do two washings. Yes I did decide to wash the floors. Yes the basura (rubbish) needs to be taken out….etc…etc.
Despite all the wonders of modern technology, surely travelling used to be less hassle, no? Or maybe it´s just another sign of ´getting on´ in years. I´m ready for a shoulder massage and am only on the high speed AVE from Valencia to Madrid. No WIFI either while hurtling along at 250 kilometers per hour. It´s dark outside so no views….well they´d probably be just a blurr anyway.
Hallo Mein Deutschlehrer! Ich habe ihn gesagt dass ich wurde ein bisschen, jeden Tag auf Deutsch schreiben. That´s enough for today…
Ok so far so good…
Para que lo sepáis mis amigos… hablantes españoles…
Oliva – Gandia- Valencia-change station-Ave to Madrid (arrived 15 mins early)- bus to airport-(2degrees and cold waiting for hotel bus pickup)-Hotel Axor (excellent). Midnight and about 4 hours sleep. Hotel bus to airport- Air France to Paris.
Now here´s where it starts to go astray… Zero degrees and plane is de-iced. Arrived at Paris a bit late. No worries. Only a 25 minute fast walk to other terminal. Arrived to a huge crowd slowly going through only two lines. Getting worried about time. Asked twice to staff. It´s OK..they will wait for you was the reply. Well they lied. Got to boarding gate…..fermé…cerrado….tancat…closed….geschliest!!!!!!!
Staff directed me to customer services of Air France who were quite unperturbed that the airport staff had told lies (they are not our staff…was the retort). Another woman arrived beside me…a lovely Indian lady, also going to Bangalore. Her flight from Zurich arrived a bit late and she received the same replies as I had….No worries!! So their solution was to put us on an Oman Air flight to Muskrat..WHERE?!!! Then we were to catch another flight to Bangalore. So we were sent away to another part of airport. We asked for help but the seven people working in this sector were hopeless. One said we may need visas to go to Oman!!!! So we decided to return to Air France to say we wanted to be put in an hotel overnight and fly out at the original flight time the following day. Believe me this took a lot of searching around airport. We hadn’t eaten ..apart from un trés petit croissant served onboard and were hungry, thirsty, tired, stressed and totally pissed off (súper enfadadas) with Air France and airport staff. They refused to put us up in hotel so back to plan B….Third time through all the security checks and wondering if our luggage would find us at the final destination!
Oman Air flight staff was as flight staff should be. We got the best in-flight meals I’ve had in a long time. And Runa, my travelling companion, was great company and we had some laughs over our experiences. So we arrived at Muskrat (only saw inside of the airport) then discovered that there was a 4 hour delay for the Bangalore flight. Hope you are still following this saga… To end this part..we did get to Bangalore, our luggage did too, and we were ONLY 10 hours behind schedule. We bid each other a fond farewell with promises to meet up before I head back.
An hour´s taxi ride to Alistair and Amargit´s home in the suburbs of Bangalore and a much needed tea. An ayurvedic masseuse came to give me a thorough oiling and pummelling of aching muscles (450 rupees….6Euros)…a bargain. Later on helped their 8 year old daughter , Anou, with homework. Their other daughter Jaya has chickenpox! I have my own bedroom ensuite and slept about 10 hours.
miércoles, 11 de enero de 2012
Getting prepared..at last....
Am a Newbie to this blogging. Thanks to Betty in Ponticherry, (Betty-in-India) for sharing her blog and hence the idea. Funny how we sometimes keep bumping in to certain people without getting to know them too well. You know the kind of people who turn up in the same places as you over a few years? Well that´s the case with Betty (who´s french but lives...or rather, lived....in Spain until recently). I was at a beautiful New Year retreat at Solterreno in Vall de Laguar, Alicante and found out that Betty had headed off to South India. Funny, I thought, I´m heading to that very spot myself in a few weeks. Mmmmm maybe we still have something to learn from each other or a message to pass on? Anyway the rough plan is to meet up over there at least to get a photo taken to prove we are both really there!
I was getting a wee bitty anxious about my lack of travel itinerary. Should I do it all on my own, living from day to day, going with the flow, being a wandering Wilma? Should I hook up with a stranger on Travbuddy.com? Or should I be safe and sensible and get an agency to work out a plan for me? Yup... I´m at that age when sometimes it all seems more relaxing to pay more and get someone else to do the leg work. However..... I don´t want to sound too fuddy duddy and staid...so there´s the second half of the journey still to work on. We´ll see how it goes with the trip planned through the highly recommended Indian Panorama.
Started putting some things in a suitcase... decicions, decisions. I can´t be the only one who never knows what to take and what to leave behind. Now THERE would be a great business idea! An agency which plans your trip AND packs your luggage too!!
Off to beddybyes to dream of inspiring, exciting India...zzzzzz
I was getting a wee bitty anxious about my lack of travel itinerary. Should I do it all on my own, living from day to day, going with the flow, being a wandering Wilma? Should I hook up with a stranger on Travbuddy.com? Or should I be safe and sensible and get an agency to work out a plan for me? Yup... I´m at that age when sometimes it all seems more relaxing to pay more and get someone else to do the leg work. However..... I don´t want to sound too fuddy duddy and staid...so there´s the second half of the journey still to work on. We´ll see how it goes with the trip planned through the highly recommended Indian Panorama.
Started putting some things in a suitcase... decicions, decisions. I can´t be the only one who never knows what to take and what to leave behind. Now THERE would be a great business idea! An agency which plans your trip AND packs your luggage too!!
Off to beddybyes to dream of inspiring, exciting India...zzzzzz
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